TheDaak review

Sweetness and Power: The Place of Sugar in Modern History by Sidney W. Mintz; Penguin Books,1986, 320 Pages, 19.7 x 12.9 x 1.93 cm, ISBN: 978-0140092332,  ₹888 (Paperback)

By Malvika Singh

Sweetness and Power is a seminal work by anthropologist Sidney Mintz that explores the historical, economic, and cultural significance of sugar in the modern world. His well-researched account of the importance of sugar in the world, with a focus on England since the 1500s, shows how its trajectory changed from being a rarity in 1650 to a luxury in 1750, and into a virtual necessity by 1850. The book is a fascinating examination of how, through many centuries,  the cultivation, production, and use of sugar have influenced international trade, labour relations, and cultural practices.  

Mintz argues that sugar has played a central role in the rise of capitalism and the development of modern society, notably in the Western world. He examines the origins of sugar production, tracing its history from its cultivation in the Middle East and its spread across the Mediterranean, and then to the New World, where it became a key commodity in the Atlantic slave trade. The author also examines the cultural relevance of sugar, focusing on its contribution to the growth of mass consumerism and modern confectionery. He demonstrates how sugar changed from being a luxury good only available to the wealthy to become a cheap good that was enjoyed by individuals from all social stratas.

In the first chapter, he provides an introduction to the anthropology of food, discussing the role of sugar in that field of study, and mentions about the extraction of sucrose, its association with people, historical sources and provides a detailed description of early civilisations’ dietary practices and how the idea of sweetness evolved over time, which was not characteristic before the 18th century. Mintz devotes much of his time to the two chapters on production and consumption. He provides a thorough analysis of the historical sources in the second chapter, which covers sugar manufacture, the locations and methods of sugar production. He also cites the influence of the westward expansion of Arabs on the European experience of sugar, the movement of the sugar industry to the Atlantic islands and the introduction of sugarcane into the New World from the Canary Islands. 

In his description of consumption in Britain, in the third chapter, Mintz rekindles his interest in the topic of sugar itself. This is the best and most fascinating chapter in the book, and a noteworthy addition to the social history. He mentions the uses of sucrose as medicine, spice- condiment, decorative material, sweetener and preservative and how it came in connection with three other exotic imports- tea, coffee, and chocolate. He also includes a thorough description of how, beginning in the Middle Ages, affluent aristocrats and nobles used sugar and marzipan sculptures, figures, and things to demonstrate their wealth at banquets. It is fascinating how he depicts through images the giant sugar sculptures of cathedrals, ships, chariots, and nude women that were created at the time by royal sugar bakers. He also sheds light on the social aspects of it and mentions that ‘the nutritional value of foods was not equally distributed within family units where usually wives and children are undernourished because of a culturally conventionalised stress upon adequate food for breadwinner’. He also states that the uses and meanings of sugar would change in the hands of new users, becoming what they had not been before, but he didn’t elaborate too much on this.

In the chapter titled “Power”, Sidney Mintz explores the power relations related to the production and use of sugar. In the age of sugar plantation economies, Mintz explains how European colonial powers possessed great strength due to their control over sugar production and trade. He delves into the exploitative aspects of sugar production, specifically focusing on the Caribbean and other regions’ usage of slave labour. According to Mintz, this exploitation was essential to the colonial elites’ rise to power and prosperity. The fifth and last chapter is devoted to in-depth reflections on dietary changes from the 20th century, with a focus on the shifting roles of sugars and sweeteners. The best thing is that he has justified the facts and data with many scholarly writings.

Mintz concludes by speculating on the societal effects of our new diet that is high in sugar. He makes the case that traditional diets that relied on complex carbohydrates like wheat, rice, or maize were communal in nature and required extensive preparation before being eaten. The modern diet, on the other hand, lays emphasis on individualism and is centred on prepared and processed meals that are high in sugar. These dishes are consumed solitary or on the go, signalling the demise of the traditional meal as a social ritual. 

‘The rise in the use of prepared foods, the increase in meals eaten out, and the decline of the meal itself as a ritual (particularly for kin groups) have led in recent decades to different patterns of sucrose usage as well as to increases in the consumption of sugars overall’, said Mintz. He also asserts that combined with bitter beverages, sugar was consumed daily by almost every living Briton. Mintz discusses how sugar became a symbol of wealth and status, shaping social hierarchies and consumer habits. He contends that sugar became firmly embedded in cultural norms and practices by satisfying psychological and social requirements in addition to physical cravings. Mintz provides a thorough examination of sugar’s transforming influence on human cultures by looking at its historical, economic, social, and cultural aspects.

Mintz’s work, which combines historical analysis, ethnographic study, and cultural criticism, is captivating and thought-provoking. In general, Sweetness and Power is a must-read for anybody interested in the rise of capitalism, the history and culture of food, or the effects of globalisation on contemporary society. This book is a significant contribution to the discipline of anthropology and an interesting read for everyone because of Mintz’s enlightening and perceptive views. 

Although the book is largely considered a classic in the fields of anthropology and food studies, it has also come under fire for a number of reasons. The book has been criticised for omitting the agency of the Africans who were held as slaves and made to labour on the sugar plantations. Although Mintz acknowledges the role of slavery in the development of the sugar industry, some critics argue that he does not fully explore the experiences of the enslaved people themselves, which I totally agree with. Although he mentions their eating habits in the book, their lived experiences in the production of sugar are not extensively discussed. This has led some readers to argue that the book downplays the violence, exploitation, and resistance of enslaved people in the production of sugar. Secondly, I noticed that Mintz’s research is overly focused on capitalist, Western countries and does not adequately examine how sugar is used in non-Western cultures or how sugar production and consumption have changed over time and across different geographical areas and historical periods.

In the assessment of this work, Mark Wilde points out that ‘meaning’ and  ‘power’ may seem ill-defined or vague. Mintz provides scant information regarding how the British elite defined the uses and meanings of sugar for the general public. He suspects that his assertion has some validity, but we are offered little on which a judgement can be made.  I somewhat concur with Mark Wilde’s assertion that Mintz’s conception of power in regard to sugar was hazy, because he has just briefly touched on the subject. He did, however, briefly highlight how different social classes use sugar in their diets. B W Higman, an Australian historian, states that Mintz’s approach is anthropological rather than historical, and he explains in some detail what this means for the treatment of his topic. The historians will find it difficult to avoid noticing that the book’s subtitle, The Place of Sugar in Modern World History, suggests something more comprehensive than is delivered. In response, I would argue that while Mintz may not have delved far into the history, I think the book was thorough enough to grasp the subject.

Despite these criticisms, Sweetness and Power is still a significant and influential work in the field of food studies and anthropology. Its analysis of the role of sugar has inspired a generation of scholars to explore the complex and multifaceted ways in which food shapes our world. The rise in the use of sugar is a central feature in the development of the modern diet. Numerous facets of this shift are successfully captured by Mintz.

Overall, Sweetness and Power is a perceptive and engaging study. This book analyses the development of sugar production and use, and further examines its connections to class, industrialisation, and slavery along with discussing how sugar has influenced modern food and eating practices. Mintz takes his readers on a detailed journey through the history of sugar to see how Europe was transformed into a sugar craving nation. The numerous references to sugar found in chronicles, letters, and cookbooks from the Renaissance period to the present day represent a treasure trove of amusing and quaint lore that can arouse the interest of anyone interested in the history of food.